Kruse es treinta anos.
 Well – successfully caught the 2am ferry to Isla de Margarita. Turiste class. Which meant watching some people race for the best spots to put up hammocks, while others raced for the best floor space. I settled for half a bench. Arm rests are rather annoying. Woke up halfway through the night, well many times actually – but this time, to find my camera out of my pocket. Not sure if it had fallen out, or was attempted thievery. Either way, it probably would have become thievery fairly soon. But – cunning old Kruse had clipped his keyring onto the camera strap, and – whether it had prevented thievery, or stopped the camera from falling completely – this had saved the day.
Anyway – got to Isla de Margarita at around 7am. Raining. Chatted to another backpacker on the bus to Porlamar, turned out to be Argentinian. We walked around Porlamar for quite some time in the rain, trying to find cheap place to stay. Not much luck, so I caught a bus to Juan Griego, while he stayed to look. He wanted to find a job, and Porlamar´s the biggest town on the island.
Juan Griego – walk around every hotel I can find. No hostels in Venezuela that I´ve seen so far. First place I go to – rather large man, a little creepy, tells me that I´ll be back. And, he was right. Should have checked the shower before accepting the room though. No shower head, and only cold water. So – was like showering under a hose attached to the wall. Good water pressure though. And it turned out to be not bad. Free internet at hostel, but with a french keyboard. I´ve pretty much gotten used to the Spanish keyboards – but the french one was really annoying. As they tend to do, they´ve changed nearly everything – just to spite the rest of the world.
Venezuela is proving to be relatively expensive. The island has fairly expensive accommodation – but beer is cheap, as it´s a duty-free island. So – the number of liquor stores has shown me that I misjudged the lunatic in Caracas on one point, at least. When he kept saying he wanted “something especial”, and I was getting furious – telling him to just tell me exactly what he wanted…. “what do you want?” “something especial” “what is that?” “whiskey” “which whiskey?” “something especial” “aaarrgh! Just order something yourself.” …. turns out there is a whiskey called Something Special.
Had a fairly pricey lunch. Considering the reports of it being even harder to get cash on the island than it is on the mainland – I figure I´ve got enough cash to spend two nights, and will probably have to eat extremely cheaply, or not drink. After lunch, and figuring out my options, I go and buy a sixpack of beer, and sit on the dock of the bay. Watching the tide come in. The time roll away. And kids. Kids making kids eat sand. Kids pashing. Kids diving, doing bombs.
Also – a funeral procession went past. Stationwagon covered in flowers/wreaths, with about 200 people walking behind it – including the casket being carried.
Five and a half hours siesta. Get up just in time to realise that Venezuelan time is different from Argentinian time. Here – the restaurants aren´t just getting busy at 10:30, they´ve just closed. I eventually find a small dairy type place, and drink multiple cervezas for dinner. At 1,000 Bolivars each, I believe. So, about 80 NZ cents. Only 250ml bottles though. I also get tres cans to takeaway – and return to the dock of the bay. Watching the War of the Beach. The Dance of the Tide. Awaiting midnight. Midnight comes, I turn 30, and don´t even cry. Old (homeless?) man comes buy. Collecting cans & bottles, and sits next to me for a little while. I give him my two empties – and he asks for my full one. Offers me something for it, a bag of garlic maybe? No chance.
27 March
Walked up to the local fort. Very proud description of the history, along the lines of “Here the brave locals of Margarita fought for their independence.” No mention of when they bravely gave away that independence to become part of Venezuela. Went down other side of fort hill, to little village/suburb – with nice looking beach. Walked along the beach, and swam in the Caribbean. I think the best thing about the swim was the thought “I´m swimming in the Caribbean Sea.” Returned to hostel, rather sunburnt – despite it being an overcast day.
Rather expensive dinner – mostly due to 35,000Bs bottle of wine. But, had discovered the secret (I think/hope) to withdrawing cash in Venezuela – and was my birthday, so splashed out. And… sitting at a table on the beach, with a wine bucket next to you, a beer in hand, and a menu of very fresh seafood, is a fine way to spend an evening.
Went to a small pub after dinner. Ended up chatting to old french woman. Chatting? Mostly her talking, and me guessing what she meant from occasional recognisable words, and her many hand gestures. And making some kind of response to signify I understand in my little spanish. She doesn´t like the Europeans who come to the island. She´s been living here 11 years, and had utter contempt on her face when talking about “la euros”. She invited a guy over who spoke fairly good English. Used to be a tour guide. Much advice on things to see/do on the island. May have convinced me to stay a few more days – possibly go to a little village, and wait for a local to invite me in to stay.
I eventually admitted to the ex-guide that it was my birthday, and he and the pub owner were mucho happy for me. We talked for a while about “the youth of today”, and the owner ended up giving me a free beer. Was probably one cerveza too many. He also offered me a girl for my birthday night. Nice guy.
Now have to decide what I am to do. I think I´ll use my usual technique of letting events decide for me. I´ll see what buses are available at the station. Hopefully there´ll only be one appropriate one, and I´ll take that. Options are 1) La Asuncion – where apparently there is a maze, with a kind of zoo in the middle with monkeys and tarantulas. Sounds odd, and apparently not even many locals know it exists. The french woman didn´t. 2) San Francisco – a little village to the west. No accommodation, but apparently some locals might invite me in to stay, for a small fee. Close to a couple of the best beaches on the island. 3) Catch ferry back to mainland.
Apparently Easter here is nuts. As well as Angel Falls. Anywhere touristy. So – to avoid crowds, and high prices, have to find somewhere quiet for over Easter period.