Fray Bentos

Managed to escape Colonia.  Was looking a bit dodgy there for a moment, when I discovered the secret of buying 2 litres of red wine for 50 UR$ – just over 2 NZ$.  But – stuck around just long enough to watch the All Blacks vs South Africa.  I’d been told that the Uruguay cable channels show it – and knew the hostelhad cable – so decided to stay one more day, rather than risk the next town not having any.  Then, got worried – as volleyball coverage kept going well after time of kick-off.  Started thinking that maybe I’d miss the start, and the haka.  Then – rugby, but a kind of documentary/interview type thing.  On famous drop-goals.  And yes, Zinzan was included – and explained what was going through his head when he did it.  Finally, an hour after kick-off time – sweet, full delayed coverage.  In Spanish – which was cool.  Mostly just reciting the names of players with the ball, and once – when a penalty kick went through – the long drawn out yell, similar to the famous “Goooooooooooaaaaaalllllllll”.  Sweet.  Hung my NZ flag up on the wall, wore my NZ scarf and Ben’s NZ t-shirt.  All Blacks underwear.  Full sport-head like.  And had a South African to watch it with.  Americas Cup coverage on the internet beside me (crashed about 2/3 of the way through – but just as well, I guess).

Then – caught bus to Fray Bentos.  Met a kiwi couple at the bus station, and gave them the results.  Bus to Fray Bentos, broke down.  Buses here love to break down – luckily this one was at a bus station at the time.  Fray Bentos – home of what was once the centre of the meatpacking industry.  Responsible, I believe, for Oxo cubes, spam, and various other spam-like products.  First night – found dodgy little bar, met some locals, then went to play pool.  Yesterday, slept in well past checkout time – so paid for another night, then went to visit the old meat-works.  Didn’t go inside the actual factory (which apparently is quite interesting.  Pretty much left just as it was when the plant shut down – blood-stained hooks and all.)  But, walked around the museum attached to it.  Calf with two heads – it’s head(s) preserved in a jar.  History of the factory, etc.  Some guy came up with the idea of ‘meat extract’, came to Uruguay and built a factory to make it.  Also brought the industrial revolution to Uruguay in the process, machines at the factory supplied entire town’s power supply for a while.  Blah blah blah.

Other than that, Fray Bentos has nothing.  Except heaps of foreigners.  Was expecting to be only tourist, as everybody else I’ve talked to just goes Montevideo-Colonia-Buenos Aires, or the other way around.  Turns out I AM the only tourist, but there are several hundred foreigners, mostly Finnish, due to a paper mill being built nearby.  A paper mill which the Argentinians hate, and therefore have blocked the bridge border crossings – making it possible that I’m going to have trouble in a couple of days.  But, anyway, everybody here assumes I am Finnish, and that I’m involved with the factory.  Very very surprised when I say I’m a tourist, and usually react with disbelief for a while, and then asking “Why?”  Much friendlier once I convince them though, and I understand why after watching the behaviour of some of the other foreingers here last night.

This evening, I’m heading further north.  Got a bus ticket to Salto, but have 5 hours to kill.  Luckily, I discovered a cafe/bar with a type of cerveza I haven’t tried yet.  Salto is in the midst of a thermal area, with several ‘resorts’ scattered around.  So – hope to find a cheap one, and spend one or two days in a thermal pool.  Found out yesterday that I have already gone through the areas where the vineyards are located – so may conpensate in Salto.  Had some practice yesterday – although the bar owner tried to tell me that red wine was to be drunk slowly.  Crazy old fool.

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