Am in da Windies, mon. Minibus up from Lethem to Georgetown was one of the most continuously ridiculous experiences in my life. An 11 hour trip which turned out to be 19 hours – despite being in a minibus driven by a maniac rather than the bus. Entire road was dirt/dust and pot-holed. Yet – van was continuously at full revs, except when crossing very very dodgy looking bridges. Imagine a home-made bridge on a New Zealand farm – every bridge on the main North-South route was exactly like that. Gate on road closes overnight, apparently. So – we stop at restaurant/bar at about 11:30 – and I’m told that we can’t leave until 4:30. Driver doesn’t bother telling anybody else in van – so they’re sitting there waiting while we’re drinking. Eventually, of course, I’m the last person up – except for three or four indigenous locals. They are all christian, love to use the word ‘fucking’ a LOT, very very drunk, love to rubbish each other’s arguments, and very much love to explain their own arguments or greivances.
Michael, told by the tall chap that I didn’t like (first thing I heard him say was something like “Shut up Michael, he doesn’t want to listen to your bullshit. No wonder you’re such a farking awful christian.”) – anyway – Michael was really really not happy about a bowler being sacrificed for Brian Lara. “How, tell me, how – can you justify sacrificing a bowler for a batsman – and he bats at Number 8? Tell me that? How?” – repeat several times.
The beekeeper chap was very concerned/angry about the US$100 that has gone missing – donated by some international beekeeping federation Another chap kept telling me that the others knew nothing about cricket – but HE, he would love to talk to me. And all of these people are so close to me that I couldn’t move an inch in any direction without touching somebody inappropriately.
I was still awake when the driver woke up, and immediately decided it was time to go. From drunken slumber, to 100km/hr on dirt road in the space of two minutes. Elderly lady and I swapped glances of “This guy is loco” and “We are going to die”. Would die in style though. Van was bright pink, and according to the windshield named “Godfather”.
Finally got to Georgetown. Just in time for me to drop off stuff at overpriced guesthouse – and go across the road to watch the 2nd innings of England vs West Indies, at a bar named “Windies”.
22 April
Moved to a cheaper guesthouse. Walked around town a bit. Sat at a few different pool bars, drinking beer & playing pool. And that was about it.
23 April
Went for a walk. Saw the Georgetown Cricket Club/Ground. Pretty cool – but couldn’t go inside. Instead – went to adjacent zoo. Bloody snakes. Two large boa constrictors asleep in tree, coiled together. (I think there was two – I’m pretty sure I saw two tails. Otherwise, one very very large snake.) On the ground – two live chickens. One had the sense to look rather concerned. Next cage – two bloody huge anacondas. Anaconda is big. Really really big snake. I immediately became glad that I didn’t see one in the wild. All the other normal zoo stuff. Birds. Some pretty cool birds. Weasel, ugly tapir things, and the cats. Zoo staff happened to have a ocelot cub out of enclosure with them, while feeding giant river otter. Asked if I’d like a photo holding it. Cue very cheesy photo. Little thing kept biting me. Not particularly pleased about being held by big white man when there was obvious big fresh fish on the ground.
And now – researching pubs to watch cricket at tomorrow. Was suggested one by a guy on the trip up. The guy wasn’t particularly pleasant – but seemed to think the Blue Iguana was a ‘must-see’ in Georgetown. My research shows that owners are currently on bail for various drug/firearms charges – after a raid last week which was searching for 33 stolen AK-47s, among other firearms. Several articles about the army being ‘posted’ there for different reasons. Sometimes with the police – but usually, it seems it’s an army job. Sweet.
Beer slogans in Guyana: “It’s brewery fresh!” “The best reason for beer.” “Drink <brand> …because it’s good.” And others.
Today I saw: birds – pretty birds, ugly birds, big birds, little birds; cats – big cats, baby cats, vicious nasty jungle cats; monkeys – dirty monkeys, playful monkeys, boring monkeys; turtles – smelly turtles; tapirs – ugly tapirs; weasel; alligators; fish – big fish, ugly fish; snakes – bloody big nasty snakes; giant river otter; Georgetown Cricket Ground.
I didn’t see a manatee.