Turkmenistan

Escaping Turkmenistan

19 May – Turkmenistan – Uzbekistan, ~53 miles

A very short day today (riding-wise)… last day’s stop at Dashoguz wasn’t on the schedule, but a relatively ad-hoc stop to bring us back on schedule (after the unexpected early sailing over the Caspian)… allowing for a shorter “border-day”.
Just 10 miles or so to the Turkmenistan Border-Control… arriving bang-on 9am, when they open the gates. 3.5 hours later – we’d been processed through the entire border (including a reasonably serious looking “DMZ”… plenty of barbed wire, closed cast-iron gates, and the such).

Uzbekistan is looking good thus far, really friendly people (including the army guy meeting us outside first gate), and actual tourism… not sure I missed that, but Turkmenistan was weird in it’s total absence.
Oh – and I’m a millionaire. Changed a bit of money into the local “Som”… and now have a little over 1.1 million Som burning a hole in my pocket. Or rather – spread all throughout my luggage, as 1.1 million Som (in 5,000 Som notes) is actually a sizable chunk of paper.
Internet here is unmonitored and unrestricted – I believe, but quality is still rubbish… so probably still unable to upload photos. And it took me 24 hours until I could upload this post.
Staying two nights in Khiva/Xiva – one of the principal cities on the original Silk Road, or some rubbish like that. Have had only a cursory look around this afternoon – looks like it’s going to be a long decent wander around the “Old City” tomorrow, in 35°C heat.

Between Turkmenistan & Uzbekistan
One-Million-And-Change

Knocking on the Door To Hell

17-18 May – Turkmenistan, ~393 miles

Nearly 400 miles of boring straight roads. Well – boring, except for the atrocious potholes at random intervals… some easily big enough to stop a bike (and rider) in its tracks. But – managed to navigate them all no problem, to get to…

Darvaza – the Door To Hell. This was my first highly-anticipated sight/site… once it was confirmed we were bypassing Iran. And yeah – didn’t disappoint. I don’t know how many people know about this place… but look it up. In a short, bastardized, probably inaccurate version… there was a gas well, one day a sinkhole opened up and it disappeared into the earth; there was a bit of methane in the air; so some guys decided to burn off any excess gas, ie: light a match, throw it in, run away, and then come back to recover the rig; good plan; nearly 50 years later… the fire’s still going. That’s enough of a back-story and general concept to have had me wanting to visit this place for many, many years.

So.. left Ashgabat very late – after noon – riding for a couple hundred miles around those goddamn potholes, and visiting a couple of “lesser” gas craters. The first one – just a sinkhole with some water in the bottom – no gas flame. Boo.
Second – another sinkhole with a small bonfire down the bottom, some boiling mud, and a heap of rubbish people had obviously thrown in to burn… but missed the wee actual gas vent/bonfire.
Then – got to our campsite – a few miles away from the “Gates of Hell” proper. Settled in, had beers and snacks, waiting for dinner… when some vague thunder sounds come from over the hills. Then, some very black clouds start rolling over same hills, and some very frequent lightning. The clouds becoming more and more menacing… very impressively so. It takes quite a bit to get me to talk about the weather… but this was very impressive… nearly scary. Eventually – we realised the storm wasn’t going to just skirt us, allowing some pretty sunset-vs-storm photos… but was actually going to hit us… so 10 minutes of quickly packing stuff up, turning tables upside down, and then running to tents… I got to my tent just as the rain started, and then allowed several litres of water in while trying to figure out how to close the fly-door. (After the storm I discovered… impossible, broken). 10 minutes later… storm passed, we all emerge from tents very impressed by the whole storm – and drink whisky while watching the storm sail off to hit other unsuspecting victims.
I’ve seen bigger storms in the past – but only once or twice.
Enough about the boring weather. Dinner, whisky, wine, beers… then finally off to the actual Darvaza Crater. Nothing at all like I expected… much smaller, and rather than one big burning “lake”… rather a crater of hundreds, thousands, of flames from crevasses. Still – rather impressive. And very difficult to get a decent photo of… but the wider internet will have plenty.

Today – a quick ride up to Dashoguz… (very quick… I left the campsite last – was first into the hotel)… for a leisurely afternoon/evening before tomorrow’s border crossing into Uzbekistan, which can apparently be a lengthy and frustrating process.

Ships of the desert
Our local Turkmen “Alabai” Wolfhound watching over his new flock
Rather impressive storm rolling in
Completely inadequate attempt to capture Darvaza Crater

Ashgabat

A rather, ah…, intriguing city.
I’m not going to upload any photos, or any (too) controversial opinions/comments (as if I had any) – as internet access is very limited, and monitored.
Just generally – bizarre. Much, MUCH, white marble everywhere… 4.5 million square metres of it, I believe – with 543 buildings covered in it? And if a building isn’t covered in marble… it’s faux-marble.
95% of the cars, buses, taxis, vans, trucks – all white. The other 5%… experimenting with silver, light shades of brown… and I believe I counted two taxis gone full-rebellious yellow.
I went for a very very long walk to check out a couple of the larger monuments alone… discovering a few random things on the way. But in my full 6 hours of walking, including visiting at least 4 sites which would be considered major “tourist attractions” anywhere else… could not find a single place to buy food or water. I get the impression that everything about this city is designed to look good .. and it seems just for the locals… foreign opinion be damned (and local living standards be damned).
Really hard to describe… I’d heard about a lot of this before I got here, but never really believed the scope of it would be so… utter fucking crazy.

Anyway – tomorrow evening we’re going to be “camping”, so at least one day of not being able to update… and at least another 3 days of not being allowed access to facebook or “The Fern” (strangely – NZ sports forum TheSilverFern is blocked here, along with the other ‘social media’ giants). So – next update is likely to be from either just before, or just after, crossing into Uzbekistan.

Just a random building in Ashgabat
Just a random mini shopping mall in the middle of a park in Ashgabat
Just a random view of a small part of Ashgabat, including the spectacularly random Stadium complete with giant Horse-Head
Just a random Giant Book
Independence Monument… there was a whole hell of a lot more to this than a single photo can give justice to
Monument of Neutrality… this used to sit in the middle of town, and the golden ex-President on top would rotate to always face the sun during daytime. New president thought it a little gaudy (and more impressive than his palace) so moved it out into the suburbs. Ex-President no longer rotates.

Across the Caspian Sea

Firstly – apologies for the “radio silence”, in case anybody got worried not hearing a peep for several days. There has been zero internet access over the last couple of days… and while I knew it was coming, I had assumed I’d have an evening to write an update warning of it in Baku, before I went “incommunicado” for an unknown time.
Also worth noting – likely to happen in the future also, for several days at a time.

Anyway – I’m now in Ashgabet, Turkmenistan – where internet access is very unreliable, so I’ll just post the bones of this ASAP, and flesh out as I can. Photos… unlikely.

12-15 May – Azerbaijan – Caspian Sea – Turkmenistan, 521 miles riding + 13-hour ferry

So – the longest border crossing thus far… 31.5 hours, albeit 13 of those hours sailing across the Caspian Sea.
The original plan – Sheki->Baku – then stay the night in Baku, while we figure out when a ship is sailing to Turkmenbashi (the ferries have no published schedule or regular departure times). Then – as we got to Baku, we are told there is one leaving that very afternoon – and if we can all get to the Port by 16:00 – we’re good to “steal a march”. So… we do…
16:00 – get to the new Baku International Sea Port
… waiting around, change out of bike clothes, go through Azerbaijan Customs/Passport-Control/etc
19:30 – get on Ferry/boat
Midnight – Ferry/boat leaves port
… very calm/peaceful trip across the Caspian Sea… clocks go forward
14:00 – Ferry/boat docks in Turkmenbashi
16:00 – Allowed off ferry/boat, to start Customs/Passport-Control
00:30 – Released from Customs/Passport-Control

The Turkmen border process reminded me of a Scooby-Doo cartoon… one long hallway, with a group of people going in and out of different doors all down the corridor, chasing each other, sometimes doubling back, sometimes just sitting in a queue. Looking back, I can count 7, maybe 8, offices I had to visit.

Anyway – we finally got out of the compound, and arrived at our hotel in Turkmenbashi around 1am. Woke up to discover the hotel is a very long walk from town… so wash the bikes (apparently the President frowns upon dirty vehicles… so getting into the capital could be troublesome with a dirty bike), and then I walk into town. To discover… nothing. A deserted children’s amusement park, and zero shops. No internet cafe (I asked – I just got the shaken head “no” in response… zero internet in the entire town, apparently). Walked back to hotel in stinking hot sun, rather sun-burnt for no result.

Next day (today) – to be the first day riding through the desert. Our first desert-ride turned into our first full-day-wet-weather-ride… nearly 6 hours of heavy rain. On desert roads… obviously not designed for rain… there were floods, patches of wet sand, and long sections which when wet – looked like glass. And… reacted like wet glass also, when introduced to motorcycle tires. I had about 2 seconds of the tires not behaving as I wished them too, and slowed the hell down for quite some time, until I could actually see real texture on the road again.
Anyway – got here safe, to the rather spectacular city of Ashgabat, where we have a day “off” tomorrow. I’m not sure how to describe what I’ve seen of the city so far… the residential areas are hundreds upon hundreds of identical “detached” houses, standing in rows, grids rather… with scores more being built. And then into the city centre – with monolithic buildings everywhere. Marble – everywhere. So – heaps of traditional monolithic marble structures, and then “futuristic”/avant-garde structures around the place also.
For just one example of each – look up the Ashgabat Airport, and the Turkmenistan Presidential Palace (which we’re staying across the road from… and as such, photos are “strictly forbidden” within several blocks of the hotel. I believe there are no hotel rooms with windows overlooking the palace.