Fray Bentos
Managed to escape Colonia. Was looking a bit dodgy there for a moment, when I discovered the secret of buying 2 litres of red wine for 50 UR$ – just over 2 NZ$. But – stuck around just long enough to watch the All Blacks vs South Africa. I’d been told that the Uruguay cable channels show it – and knew the hostelhad cable – so decided to stay one more day, rather than risk the next town not having any. Then, got worried – as volleyball coverage kept going well after time of kick-off. Started thinking that maybe I’d miss the start, and the haka. Then – rugby, but a kind of documentary/interview type thing. On famous drop-goals. And yes, Zinzan was included – and explained what was going through his head when he did it. Finally, an hour after kick-off time – sweet, full delayed coverage. In Spanish – which was cool. Mostly just reciting the names of players with the ball, and once – when a penalty kick went through – the long drawn out yell, similar to the famous “Goooooooooooaaaaaalllllllll”. Sweet. Hung my NZ flag up on the wall, wore my NZ scarf and Ben’s NZ t-shirt. All Blacks underwear. Full sport-head like. And had a South African to watch it with. Americas Cup coverage on the internet beside me (crashed about 2/3 of the way through – but just as well, I guess).
Then – caught bus to Fray Bentos. Met a kiwi couple at the bus station, and gave them the results. Bus to Fray Bentos, broke down. Buses here love to break down – luckily this one was at a bus station at the time. Fray Bentos – home of what was once the centre of the meatpacking industry. Responsible, I believe, for Oxo cubes, spam, and various other spam-like products. First night – found dodgy little bar, met some locals, then went to play pool. Yesterday, slept in well past checkout time – so paid for another night, then went to visit the old meat-works. Didn’t go inside the actual factory (which apparently is quite interesting. Pretty much left just as it was when the plant shut down – blood-stained hooks and all.) But, walked around the museum attached to it. Calf with two heads – it’s head(s) preserved in a jar. History of the factory, etc. Some guy came up with the idea of ‘meat extract’, came to Uruguay and built a factory to make it. Also brought the industrial revolution to Uruguay in the process, machines at the factory supplied entire town’s power supply for a while. Blah blah blah.
Other than that, Fray Bentos has nothing. Except heaps of foreigners. Was expecting to be only tourist, as everybody else I’ve talked to just goes Montevideo-Colonia-Buenos Aires, or the other way around. Turns out I AM the only tourist, but there are several hundred foreigners, mostly Finnish, due to a paper mill being built nearby. A paper mill which the Argentinians hate, and therefore have blocked the bridge border crossings – making it possible that I’m going to have trouble in a couple of days. But, anyway, everybody here assumes I am Finnish, and that I’m involved with the factory. Very very surprised when I say I’m a tourist, and usually react with disbelief for a while, and then asking “Why?” Much friendlier once I convince them though, and I understand why after watching the behaviour of some of the other foreingers here last night.
This evening, I’m heading further north. Got a bus ticket to Salto, but have 5 hours to kill. Luckily, I discovered a cafe/bar with a type of cerveza I haven’t tried yet. Salto is in the midst of a thermal area, with several ‘resorts’ scattered around. So – hope to find a cheap one, and spend one or two days in a thermal pool. Found out yesterday that I have already gone through the areas where the vineyards are located – so may conpensate in Salto. Had some practice yesterday – although the bar owner tried to tell me that red wine was to be drunk slowly. Crazy old fool.
June 26th, 2007 at 4:10 pm
Maybe he was meaning drink the red slowly as a pacing mechanism. As there is a lot to get thru in that area of the world.
Or maybe having a tourist drowning in wine is poor form there.
Good to see though you haven’t lost steam and are going all over the show, the continent will never be the same for the experience i bet.